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Last November, on Black Friday—the unofficial American holiday of consumer gluttony—Patagonia took out a full-page ad in the “New York Times” with the bold-face headline “Don’t Buy This Jacket.” Below a picture of the fleece jacket in question, the ad copy listed, in grueling detail, how much water was wasted and carbon emitted in the course of its construction.

"I’ve never seen a company tell customers to buy less of its product," marvels Harvard Business School professor Forest Reinhardt. "It’s a fascinating initiative. Yvon has the confidence to pull it off." In fact, Chouinard says the ad boosted Patagonia sales—though he argues it didn’t drive more overall consumption, but rather stole existing customers from his competitors.